The Natives are Restless - What's happening as Summer approaches

As spring is drawing to a close, many of the summer blooming natives are getting ready to pop. This week I wanted to give an update on how the Native plants in my garden are doing.

I was very pleased to see that the Alleghany Vine, Adlumia fungosa, has begun to bloom with its little pale pink hearts. Last year it did not begin to bloom until mid-late June. This year I am letting it find its way in a more natural way, rather than forcing it to climb a trellis. In this way it is less likely to be twisted and broken off in the wind. IOt is a little difficult to see with its delicate frilly foliage and light colored flowers.  Now I just have to avoid stepping on it.

If these plants do well I will add in some new ones that I started from seed this year.  I hope that will get a stable population growing.

The little Rosy Sedge that I talked about a few weeks back is getting closer to bloom. This particular plant is so heavily shaded that the inflorescence, in fact, the whole plant is about half the size it gets in a more open location. I would never have spotted this development if I were not actively watching for it. I hope I can show you a good image when its flowers are actually open.

Correction: Two Stems of Meadowsweet

I have two native Spiraea growing here, Steeplebush and Meadowsweet, S. tomentosa and latifolia (or alba), respectively. While there can be easily distinguished by the different shapes of the flower spike, the leaves are also different. This is the first year that I could clearly detect the difference in the leaves. Steeplebush has a soft fuzzy leaf relative to the smooth leaf (glaborous) of Meadowsweet. In the photo you can also see that leaves of the Meadowsweet and more relaxed, but that is hard to tell if you don’t have a side-by-side comparison. While the habit of these two spiraeas is rather open, relative to the tightly mounded Japanese Spirea (S. japonica), I am surprised that these native species are not used more often in the residential landscape. In my garden Meadowsweet has proven to be a very versatile shrub, growing under a wide variety of conditions and blooming throughout the summer. It also can be pruned to tame it exuberant growth without compromising its ability to bloom.

The Red Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis, is still blooming away. Here it is shown with one of my Meadowsweet bushes just behind it.










Lastly, I planted two Winterthur Viburnums (V. nudum ‘Winterthur’) 4 years ago and they are both hitting stride now. (Their slow development was due at least in part to their proximity to the shade of a Norway Maple.) These buds will open to form corymbs of small white flowers. More interesting will be the pink and blue berries to follow.

American Bellflower

All around my yard I have mini-invasions of the attractive-yet-aggressive perennial Creeping Bellflower, Campanula rapunculoides, with is tall raceme thick with 1” purple bells. This European import is prevalent in disturbed areas, but according to Forest Service, it is not believed to be a threat to undisturbed natural habitats. When I learned about a native bellflower that also produced tall flower spike I got excited and got hold of some seed. American Bellflower, Campanulastrum americanum, is a biennial, spends its first year as a rosette of foliage and then launches its flower spike, up to 5 feet, in the second year. Despite the similarity in the name, the American (or Tall) Bellflower is a very different plant from its creeping cousin. Its flowers are like sky blue stars rather than bells and very tall flower spike is rather leafy and not as densely populated by blooms. Also, American Bellflower reproduces by seed only and does not form underground runners.

The native range for Campanulastrum americanum is from Ontario to Minnesota and south to Florida. As such, there are not any native populations in Massachusetts. Its native habitat is in moist borders and open woods. While it may grow in full sun, it prefers cool conditions.

I put in seedlings in all parts of my yard ranging from dry shade to full sun in well drained soil, to see just how they do. These plants survived in all locations. In areas with fertile soil and lots of sun, the flower spike reached nearly 6 feet. In the dry shade it topped out at about 2 feet and did not bloom as intensely. It even survived under a Norway Maple. It does reseed itself quite well, where the seed can find good soil. I have way too many seedlings this year, but they are not so prevalent as I get with the Swamp Marigold, Bidens aristosa, growing in the same area.  By recognizing the rosette with its 1/2-1" heart-shaped leaves, you can mange the population by transplanting or removing excess plants.

The flowering period is from July to October. The first flush is strong then blooming continues slowly throughout the summer. While not as full as the first flush, these plants will produce fresh blooms later in the fall. I tried cutting some flower stalks back to generate new spikes at mid-season, but this was not too effective. Maybe this year I’ll try that earlier. Seed that is produced early in the season may ripen quickly and germinate to produce a rosette that year, essentially functioning as a winter annual.

Also of interest, C. americanum is on a list for plants suitable for use under walnut trees, having both resistance to the juglone and a tolerance for shade. Hummingbirds are reported to visit this plant and it has been used to treat coughs and respiratory ailments by the Iroquois and Meskwaki Indians.

Seed for C. americanum is becoming more available. I was able to get seed from both Prairie Moon Nursery and the New England Wildflower Society (NEWFS). In discussing native plants with Scott LaFleur of NEWFS, he felt that despite its vigorous nature in size and reseeding, this plant could do really well in the garden. From my experience I see that it may find its garden home in the back of a shady border or in a cottage garden, where it leafiness will blend in with the other masses of plants.  Since this plant is not native to the New England States, I would not recommend its use up here in areas near to natural areas where its seed may escape.

American Pennyroyal - Another Native Groundcover

While it may be a little late in the season to talk about starting annuals from seed, but I thought American Pennyroyal was worth mentioning here. It is a tough little plant that grows in dry, partly shady locations and is quick and easy to germinate.  It has a low-growing (6-12”) and spreading habit qualifies it as a native groundcover.

American Pennyroyal, Hedeoma pulegioides, is a low growing herb of the mint family that has been used extensively by both Native Americans and the colonists for its medicinal properties. Medicinal uses include treatment for colds and fevers, as a gastrointestinal aid (‘warming to the stomach’), and as flavoring agent in foods, like tea and ice cream. The colonists readily accepted this herb as a replacement for the European or English pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium) that they were accustomed to using. The plant is rich in a pungent, volatile oils including pulegone (whence the species name), which holds most of the medicinal properties; however, large doses are reportedly lethal. For the hikers, rubbing the leaves on your skin repels mosquitos and other biting insects.

The plant grows in dry upland woods and can occur as rather dense colonies. In nature, it is often found growing in openings in the woods and along paths. The native range runs all along the East Coast (except Florida) and west to Oklahoma and North Dakota.
Small blue tubular flowers are borne in the leaf axils of the erect stems from July to September. While the flowers do attract some tiny insects, they are difficult to see unless you get down on your hands and knees.

The real garden value of this plant is in its aromatic character and its ability to grow thickly in dry partly shady conditions. I am putting it along walkways so that you get a burst of the minty aroma anytime it is disturbed, or stepped on. I started my first ‘crop’ in 2009, with seed from Companion Plants, and am seeing new colonies springing up in adjacent areas. It is easy to distinguish from other sprouts, because as soon as you touch it you get a whiff of its minty aroma. This is a good example of what I am looking for in a native annual, that is, an annual plant that is able to persist on its own without my direct involvement and has desirable garden traits. In the case of American Pennyroyal those are its stimulating aroma and ability to grow in dry partly shady locations. 

Native Ground Covers - Part 2

In the last post I listed some of the herbaceous and small woody native plants that I have been using as ground covers. Sometimes you want that grassy look. There are a number of options for low maintenance grasses as alternatives to the Non-Native Kentucky Blue Grass and Perennial Ryes commonly used in residential lawn grasses.

One option to the conventional lawn is the use of fine fescue grasses.  These have a silkier appearance and tend to be a lighter shade of green than KBG.  Two commercially available seed mixes based on blends of fine fescue grasses are ‘No-Mow’ Mix from Prairie Nursery and Eco-Lawn from Wildflower Farm. These mixes contain a blend of creeping and clumping fescues, some of which are native to North America, which will tolerate a range moisture and light of conditions. Lawns of these grasses are reported to require very little mowing (1-4 times/year), little additional water and no fertilization.

Another option is to do a sedge lawn. Sedges, members of the genus Carex, number about 2000 species world-wide, with about 480 representatives native to North America. With so many species, there are some that are adapted to nearly any growing condition. In general, they look like average grasses. This genus can be distinguished in that sedges have triangular, not round, stems. When viewed down the stem the leaf blades radiate off at 120-degree angles. Sedge lawns are a better choice for wet conditions than fescues, however they do not tolerate foot traffic as well. Brooklyn Botanical Garden has a useful article on sedge lawns.

The first sedge that I became intrigued with was Rosy Sedge, Carex rosea. I saw this ‘in bloom’ in a friend's yard with its tiny (~1/8th inch) rose or star-like, tan colored inflorescences. These come in late spring. Otherwise, it just looks like grass. Unfortunately, I do not have a photo or these little flowers at this time, but here’s what it looks like without them. While it is naturally distributed over the eastern 2/3rds of the U.S., I do not know of a commercial source for this sedge.


Since first seeing Rosy Sedge, in 2006, I have become more interested in these plants. Two sedges that are available and well adapted for use in the Northeast are Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pensylvanica) and Appalachian Sedge (C. appalachica).

Appalachian Sedge forms clumps with mid-green blades 8-24” long. These clumps do not produce rhizomes. The bloom time is in late spring, with seeds forming in late spring to early summer. Its native habitat is in dry to mesic deciduous forests and its native range includes the eastern states from Georgia to Canada. In my yard I have it growing successfully under a Sycamore Maple (another invasive tree). The foliage turns tan over the winter, but it greens up rapidly in the spring.

Pennsylvania Sedge is becoming much more available in the nursery trade. It is a little smaller than Appalachian sedge, with leaves at 4-18 inches. It is reported to tolerate occasional mowing (I haven’t mowed mine yet on purpose, anyway). Also it does spread slowly by rhizomes, a good trait for a lawn grass. The inflorescences appear in early spring as dark brown spikes, just above the foliage. These come before and are easily distinguished from the flowers of Appalachian Sedge. This sedge is found in well drained acidic, but rich soils in and along hardwood forest edges and openings. The native range includes the eastern states from Georgia to Canada to just west of the Mississippi River. My Pennsylvania Sedge is also doing well under the same maple tree. Mine is a bit larger than the Appalachian Sedge, but it has been in the ground a year or two longer. For me the beauty of both of these grasses is that they do well in DRY SHADE!!!

For more general information on growing alterative lawns check out the following links:
>Planting a ‘No-Mow’ lawn. This link also has a clear and concise statement on growing/encouraging moss.
>Native Grass Lawns: Lots of information on a variety of altenatives
>Planting a Native Grass Lawn. This is another useful link for the Brooklyn Botanical Garden site.
The book, Easy Lawns, edited by Stevie Daniels, gives information on growing low-maintenance native grass lawns appropriate to each region of the U.S.

Native Ground Covers

When it comes to landscaping around the home, many people seem to be more comfortable with a single carpet-like planting – grass, vinca, or pachysandra. This is more comforting, easier to ‘read’ and may be a representation of nature ‘controlled’.  In the natural world the ground cover layer is more likely to be a mix of species. Each species occupies a preferred niche in both time and space. Hayscented fern is one of the few species that I’ve seen that can really appears to dominate a space, but that was in a recently cleared forest. On closer examination other species were present at ground level. With time a more diverse community will develop.

In designing a ground cover planting with native species you should draw on a palette of low-growing plants that can work together and are appropriate to the site conditions. While the following list is not exhaustive, these are some of the natives that I have grown around my home that work well as ground covers.



Black Huckleberry, Gaylassacia baccata, is and evergreen woody subshrub that is found in upland woods and handles a range of soil moistures, wet to dry, and sun exposures light shade to full sun. It grows 1-2’ tall and twice as wide. I was impressed by the glossy green (and a few bright red) leaves in February. The flowers develop slowly through the spring and are just now opening. I’m looking forward to larger plants so that I can see these colorful flowers without bending over so much. Although slow growing, I have been able to grow this plant in a variety of difficult locations. This plant is becoming more available in the retail trade. Other huckleberries, preferring moister conditions, are also available.

3-Toothed Cinquefoil, Sibbaldiopsis tridentata, (formerly of the genus Potentilla) is another tough plant for tough conditions. I’ve seen this growing at the top of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park. I’ve had a good experience growing this plant in a variety of challenging locations, such as on the edge of yew bushes. With a little protection it is evergreen through the winter and it produces clusters of white flowers in summer. While it can form a dense mat, it is not so thick as to exclude other plant from growing with it.


Bearberry, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi , grows under what would be considered very harsh conditions, but is must have very well drained soil to survive. While I’ve encountered it growing out of cracks in boulders on a hiking trail, I haven’t had much luck with this plant on my ‘typical’ residential site (too moisture retentive, my guess); therefore no photos, either.

Barren Strawberry, Waldsteinia fraganoidies, formes a fairly dense evergreen mat with good weed suppressive character. It produces yellow flowers in early spring (now in New England), but the fruit is inedible. In the photo it is growing with sensitive fern and Mayapple.  This native can be found at some nurseries, but its cousin, Siberian Barren Strawberry, Waldsteinia ternata, is much more available and is often sold under the same common name.

Hairy Alumroot, Heuchera villosa, has been a very effective ground cover for me in partly sunny locations. The collection shown here was grown from seed which produced a mixture of green and purple leaf forms. The leaves cast enough shade to control weed growth from below. Later in the summer it produces small white flowers on long racemes, but these are not particularly showy compared to many of the Heuchera cultivars.



Some other native plants that I have been trying around my home, which can be used in a ground cover mix, include Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens), Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens), Canada Mayflower (Maianthemum canadense) and Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and a variety of ferns. There are many more native species that can be used as ground covers. Just take a walk in the woods to see what’s growing there. What other natives have you used as ground covers?

For more information on native groundcovers, check out this article from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.  Also, check out my follow-up post Native Ground Covers - Part 2.

Rebirth-- Spring in New England

I had a wonderful visit to St. John, USVI, with all of its lush vegetation and quiet beaches, but you can’t beat coming back to springtime in New England. After 5+ months of grayness, color has popped out everywhere. All that new foliage is fresh and green and many of the trees and shrubs are blooming. As Laurrie commented in a recent blog post ‘The Thrill is Gone’ . We in zone 5 and below have to wait longer than many – but experiencing the rebirth first hand sure beats looking a pictures.

Here’s a look at some of the native plants that are coming out around my house in the past few days.

The common blue violet, which I used to battle against until I learned that it was a native species, was popping up through my unmown lawn. Eastern columbine is about to bloom. This one is the result of self seeding. I also caught this sweetfern in bloom with the small red female flower below the male catkins.  This little flower is really easy to miss.

In my ‘woodland’ garden there are a number of perennials returning. This garden is under a Norway Maple, so it is hardly a natural environment for these plants, but the ones that grow here are tough competitors.

Best results go to the Wild Bleeding Heart, which is actually expanding its bounds. Lowbush blueberry is blooming well this year. The Twinleaf and Bellwort have been coming back for 3-4 years now, with some indication that they are beginning to spread. Last year I was fortunate to capture the Twinleaf in bloom. The intense white flowers only last a day, but the foliage alone can carry the show.  There are also a variety of native ferns putting up their fiddleheads.

Coming soon are the huckleberry and barren strawberry. I’ll get to those later.

Native Plants...USVI

I’ve been on vacation on St. John, USVI for relaxing and snorkeling as well as appreciating the botanical differences from the chilly Northeast.

All around the island you see what are house plants at home growing in their full glory. Many of these are imported from other tropical areas around the world. Plants like Plumbago, Codiaeum variegatum (Croton) and Bougainvillea appear in many of the landscapes around the villas. You can’t deny that these look fantastic.

While driving around the island, I was surprised and delighted to find a small native plant garden. This little garden shows a variety of landscape suitable plants that may already be growing naturally on a property and encourages owners and developers to preserve them. The sponsors for this garden include local community groups and the Island Resources Foundation. This organization supports environmental preservation in the USVI and Caribbean. Their mission statement is:

To protect and enhance the environments of small islands, especially those in tropical areas, and to assist islanders in the pursuit of development options that preserve the special qualities of island life.

Some examples of the plants in the native plant garden include Yellow Prickle, Mastic, and Philodendron gigantica.