I'm continuing my multipronged attack on Japanese
stiltgrass, Microstegium vineum, that
I have been waging for about 5 years now.
Depending on where the stiltgrass is growing different techniques are
more effective.
Here are links to some earlier posts on my campaign against stiltgrass: Spring 2019, Spring 2018, Fall 2017, Original Plan 2014, and Use of Pre-emergents.
Woodlands In the shady woodland settings pulling the stiltgrass
through the summer and especially in late summer just before blooming has been
pretty effective. In several of these
shady areas removing the stiltgrass before is sets seed has shown good results
after two seasons. It is important to
continue to follow up year after year to prevent a re-infestation. When I first started do this I used a weed
whacker to cut very close to the ground and I left the cut grass in place. In places where I removed the cut grass
progress toward eliminating it seemed to go faster. Also as other, hopefully native, species
begin to fill in, weed whacking risks cutting out those species as well. Now I've gotten to the point of hand pulling
the stiltgrass and piling it up in segregated locations where any seed present
will be less likely to spread.
Here are some clumps of Virginia wild rye growing under a young tupelo tree. This is a cool season grass, seen here in June. By the end of summer it will be golden brown with arching seed heads. |
Bottlebrush grass is also a cool season grass that like partly sunny sites. These early season grasses have a chance to shade the ground before the stiltgrass begins maturing in July |
Clearweed is a native annual that has had a banner year here in 2019. It grows well in shady locations. |
Meadows I've been having more trouble in the open
meadow sites. Some of this is my
reluctance to do anything but hand pull.
I am trying not to disturb the more desirable species that co-inhabit
the meadows. In one area that I have
been hand pulling for 3-4 years I'm seeing a reduction, but it still has a long
way to go. This past spring I put some
pre-emergent in several meadow areas and
saw a further reduction in stiltgrass density, but not an elimination. I also tried burning a patch of ground in
early spring but that had no noticeable effect on the amount of stiltgrass.
(That is consistent with what the Forest Service reports on the use of fire.)
By virtue of how stiltgrass grows, sending out shallowly
rooted runners to fill all available space, by the end of summer you will have
a similar density of flowering stalks whether you have 10 or 50 seedlings per
square foot. (These are my impressions,
not proven facts). But having fewer rooted
individuals means it gets easier to clear an area by pulling because so many of
the stems are interconnected. I will try
the pre-emergent again this spring, but do the application earlier (read on
below). One of my concerns in the meadow
is that the pre-emergent will inhibit some native species from
growing/reproducing. I did not go in and
inventory what was or was not growing in the treated and untreated areas. I did see smartweeds and tick trefoils,
Desmodium panniculata, growing in all
areas. Where stiltgrass was growing
thickly the ground plane was essentially barren after the grass was removed.
This is the same area, photograph from behind. The treated side (left) has a slightly lower density of stilt grass, but still most of the available space is filled with stiltgrass stems. |
Looking
at some of the stiltgrass growing in the lawn, it looks like you would need to
cut down to about an inch to reach those lower flowers. I tried that in one section of my lawn that I
have not otherwise treated and is mostly stiltgrass. Next spring we'll see how that area compares
to normally mown areas.
After you manage to suppress the stiltgrass you need to get
something else growing in its place. The
easiest option in the lawn is to overseed with a well adapted turf grass. In the Mid-Atlantic the commercially
available options are tall fescue blends for sun and fine fescues for
shade. In my rural setting I also have
many other grasses growing in and around the lawn. Some of the native species that are mixed in
include path rush (Juncus
tenuis), purple top (Tridens flavens),
nimblewill (Muhlenbergia schreberi) and
a variety of sedges. While I encourage
these to grow, they would be much happier if they were not mown on a regular
basis. Nimblewill, though, does seem to tolerate mowing pretty well.
Getting the new seed established in the fall is critical to using most
pre-emergents because they will suppress growth of most weeds planted in the
spring.
Another option to turf grasses is to convert from lawn to
meadow or other types of plants. Based
on my meadow experience you should get rid of the stiltgrass before just adding
other plants. This can be done
chemically, by solarizing (covering with plastic for enough time to kill the stiltgrass seeds), or
covering with cardboard or many layers of paper followed by mulch or clean soil
and then planting on top.
In one shady area of lawn I have using timed mowing as the
primary means of stiltgrass control. I
leave the area unmown from mid-June until mid-August. At that time I'll pull out and remove the
tallest grass and follow up with a low mowing.
After 3 years of this I am getting less stiltgrass, but it is still
pretty thick. One explanation is that
there is a lot of stiltgrass in the surrounding area and the seeds may be
coming in from there, either blown in or carried by the rain. I did put down some pre-emergent in a small
section of this area and there was no stiltgrass present there. Mosses and perennial grasses seemed
unaffected.
The vegetable
garden In the garden one of the places stiltgrass flourishes is along the fence line. It interlaces with the chicken wire and can
be hard to remove completely. This year
I have been using a flame weeder to clear those areas. This method is more effective early in the
season when plants are smaller and more tender.
As weeds mature they have more moisture in their stems and leaves and
are more difficult to kill with heat.
One caution with using a garden torch is not to expose soaker hoses or
drip irrigation lines to the direct flame.
Unlike some weeds a soaker hose will not recover after being
melted.
Next steps:
- Overseed with turf grass. For next season I am going after a large open area that is mostly mown stiltgrass. I will use pre-emergent on this area in early spring assuming I can get the new seed established.
- Continue use of pre-emergent in lawn areas where stiltgrass is depleted. While I have not been targeting it, the amount of hair cress, Cardamine hirsuta, a winter annual weed, seems to be decreasing in the treated areas as well.
- Continue testing pre-emergent in meadow, this time apply earlier in spring
- Expand areas in the woods where stiltgrass has been pulled. Try and remember that the best strategy for removing invasive species is to clear a small area really well and then expand that area each year. Also start in a less infested area and then move to higher density areas.