There is a conflict between nature and designed human
space. We like to have our nature
neatened up and easily readable with beautiful plants arranged just so. Nature is just do what it needs to survive,
with each of its members seeking out their basic needs: food, shelter and
reproduction. Conflict arises when our
focal plantings become a meal or natures breeding habitat becomes a lawn.
In putting in our new garden and new plantings I have been
trying to work with nature to achieve my design goals and keep our vegetables
‘safe’ without destroying too much habitat or employing chemical weaponry.
To help control garden insects I have left some meadow areas
intact that provide habitat for predatory insects. I have also planted a border around the
garden with pollinator friendly plants.
In selecting these plants I chose ones that are listed as
deer-resistant. To combat the beetle
population I have a jug of soapy water.
This works well on some of the bugs whose escape strategy is to drop to
the ground. I just hold the jug under
them and they drop in when nudged.
Here are some photos of predatory insects that are in the
yard. In addition to these I have seen
the 6-spotted Tiger Beetle,
very cool!
This nymph of a Wheel Bug looks like something from the movie, Starship Troopers. |
This 2-inch mantid was hopping from stem to stem in a patch of moss phlox as I was looking for a Tiger Beetle. |
Compared to the green sweat flies, Long-legged flies are aptly named. This 1/2 inch fly is a general insect predator. |
Most of the landscape plantings I have selected are not deer
favorites. For those plants that are on
the deer’s menu I have been using repellents that are either scent-based
(putrescent eggs) or taste-based (capsaicin/hot pepper). The hot pepper spray seems to be effective at
getting the deer or rabbits to stop feeding on a plant even after they have
gotten a first taste.
You can tell deer damage by the ragged edges they leave where they tear off leaves and stems (deer don't have upper incisors). Rabbits have sharp teeth and will leave a clean cut, or they will consume a plant right to the ground.
You can tell deer damage by the ragged edges they leave where they tear off leaves and stems (deer don't have upper incisors). Rabbits have sharp teeth and will leave a clean cut, or they will consume a plant right to the ground.
The following are lists of plants that have I have put in
that are 1, deer candy; 2, occasionally browsed; 3, not bothered by deer. It is still early in the season and these
comments are based on how they treat the foliage. Flowers will be another subject (see some
comments). While it is risky to proclaim
a plant to be deer proof, I have not seen any damage to the plants on this list
(yet).
The buds on this Magnolia were being eaten off until I put on the chicken wire cage |
Apios americana
Helianthus tuberosus
Magnolia virginiana
Rudbekia triloba
Campanulastrum
americanum*
Zizia aurea*
*These were very small and eaten to the ground so rabbits or
some other critters were responsible for this damage.
This Jerusalem Artichoke was being browsed to the ground until the fences went up. Now (June 27) these are 6-7 feet tall. |
This Filipendula was nearly ready to bloom when the deer ate off most of the upper growth. Note the rough edge where the deer ripped off the tip of the plant. |
Achillea millefolium
(flowers were removed, the foliage was left behind)
Aronia melanocarpa
Aronia melanocarpa
Hibiscus moscheutos
(just once)
Filipendula rubra (just once leaves and flower buds, not after hot pepper spray)
Filipendula rubra (just once leaves and flower buds, not after hot pepper spray)
Lobelia siphilitica
Physostegia virginiana
Rudbeckia hirta
(The Lobelia had been untouched until yesterday.)
3. Resistant, so far
Aquilegia canadensis
Asclepias tuberosa
Asclepias incarnata
Ceoanthus americanus
Ceoanthus americanus
Chamaecrista fasciculata
Chelone glabra
Dicentra eximia
Hedeoma pulegiodes
Iris versicolor
Monarda didyma
Chelone glabra
Dicentra eximia
Hedeoma pulegiodes
Iris versicolor
Monarda didyma
Monarda fistulosa
Monarda punctata
Spiraea alba
As far as keeping the critters out of the garden, the double
fence method is still working. I’ve been
able to harvest snap peas, lettuce, chard and collards, so far.
I did notice some evidence of moles digging around the property. For these I put down a perimeter treatment of MoleMax, a castor oil based product that moles and other burrowing species do not like.
I did notice some evidence of moles digging around the property. For these I put down a perimeter treatment of MoleMax, a castor oil based product that moles and other burrowing species do not like.