Over the 5 years or so that I've been here in Pleasant
Valley (Zone 6b) I've been augmenting our grounds with more native species. In order to get some of the species I wanted I've
been getting more bare root plants than in the past. What I like about them is that you can find
many species that are not available in containers and that they are much less
expensive, averaging about 1/3 the cost of the same plant in a container. This lower cost is due in part to the lower
costs of shipping, only the plant without the soil, and to lower production
costs at the supplier. The down side is
that these plants are only available when they are dormant and that they need
to be planted while it is still pretty chilly out, either in late fall or very
early spring. So right now (January) is a great time to get in an order, in time for early spring planting.
I've had mixed success with these bare root plants. Reasons for failure include not planting them
in the right place, competition from existing plantings, deer browsing and some
poor technique. I won't go into the steps of planting bare
root plants, they often come with detailed care and planting instructions. You can also find
instructions
on the web.
Here are some things I've
learned from my experiences:
Get plants in the
ground quickly. If possible get them
in the ground within a day or two of when they arrive. While you can keep them in cool storage for a
time as long as the roots stay moist, or you can heel them in, by laying them
in a shallow hole and covering the roots with moist soil. I seem to be having better results with
plants that I put in place quickly. It
is important to get plants in the ground while they are still dormant. This way roots can get in good contact with the soil before the
buds open and put a greater stress on the plant. I have planted bare root stock in both late fall and early spring.
|
This Canaan fir has been in the ground for about 2.5 years.
It started at about 6 inches. The chicken wire and steel posts help
protect it from male deer who will rub off the branches
as they clean their antlers. |
Get good soil contact
with the roots. When planting in the
garden make sure that soil is well packed around the roots and spread the roots
out in the hole as you layer in the soil.
What I have been doing lately is carefully spreading out the roots as I
have been adding in the soil. After
about half of the hole is filled I fill the hole with water and let it
settle. This removes air pockets and
improves soil contact with the roots. I
continue to fill in around the plant with soil, continuing to spread out the
roots, followed by another through watering.
Plants in pots need
time to develop a good root system. For
bare root plants that I haven't had time to plant, I've potted up with container
mix, watered them well and left them in a cool protected location. Only about half of the plants survive until
the weather warms up. Not a particularly
good record. The survival rate of these
potted up plants after transplanting has not been great either. What I believe to be happening is that the
roots have not had a chance to develop while in the pot and there is too much
damage done to these weak roots when they are transplanted into the
garden. I've had better success with
plants that I've allowed to grow in the pot for a full season before going out
in the yard.
Protect plants from
critters and competition. I've lost
a number of young plants to deer browse, so now I put a little chicken wire
cage around most of my new plants. I've
also lost a number that have been shaded out by surrounding vegetation. When planting in mid-fall or early spring it
is not obvious how much crowding there will be come June and July. I need to remember that these are still
little plants and they are easily over-shadowed by larger established
vegetation. Like any new plant, bare root plants need extra water while they are getting established. I also tie a fluorescent
pink ribbon around each new plant so that I can locate them more easily when
clearing out the competition.
|
Close examination of this Juneberry shows that the leaf buds
are still plump and healthy looking. A good sign
that it will survive the winter. The pink ribbon helps me keep
track of these new additions in the landscape. |
Here are some of the species I've worked with:
|
Here is the Twinleaf in bloom. This is one of the first bare root plants
I put in. It's now 4 years old. |
Perennials: Celendine
poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum), Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), Merrybells
(Uvularia sessilifolia), Twin leaf (Jeffersonia diphylla),and Jack in the
Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) have performed quite well. Mayapple (Podophylum peltatum) and Large-flowered bellwort (Uvularia
grandifolium) are in dryish soils and have been struggling. The wild ginger (Asarum canadense) was planted in a very
challenging location, under an English walnut and surrounded by vinca, and has
faded away. Alleghany pachysandra (Pachysandra procumbens) was planted in
November in a dry shady location, so we'll see how that works.
Shrubs: Black
chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa), American
hazelnut (Corylus americana), Witchhazel
(Hamamelis virginiana), Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana), Smooth
sumac (Rhus glabra), Red elderberry (Sambucus pubens), and Meadowsweet (Spiraea alba v. latifolia). The meadowsweet and hazelnuts have been the
most successful at getting established. Smooth
sumac has suffered from both deer browse and being over shadowed by other
aggressive plants. The red elderberries
and witchhazel which did not make it were in very shady spots. The chokecherries were potted up when they got
here and only 2 of the 6 survived. Those
2 were planted out 3 months later. Soon
we'll see how they made it through their first winter.
|
This American hazelnut has been in the ground
for about a year now. In the inset you can see the swollen leaf bud
that indicates that this branch is still alive. |
Trees: Canaan fir (Abies balsamea v. phanerolepis), Concolor fir (Abies concolor), Juneberry (Amelanchier canadensis), Redbud (Cercis canadensis), Red cedar
(Juniperus virginiana), Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica), Virginia pine (Pinus virginiana), American
plum (Prunus americana), and Douglas fir
(Pseudotsuga menziesii) . The best
performers of this group are the tupelo and the Douglas and Canaan firs. Ones that have not worked out here are the
Virginia pine (wrong soil type here), Redbud (location had too much shade from
competition), Red cedar and the Concolor fir (uncertain). The American plum was just planted this fall,
so the jury is out, but they look OK so far.