Plans for 2023

 2022 was a particularly bad year  for me in the vegetable garden.  Conversely it was a great year for our local ground hog and rabbits.  The chicken wire fencing that I had sunk in around the perimeter had sufficiently rusted away to allow too many access points to control.  So may first garden job this year is to  rebuild the subsurface groundhog fence.  I've adopted a design I found on the Massachusetts Audubon site.  The key feature is that it extends the fencing horizontally outward from the fence.  This is supposed to make it more frustrating for critters to dig under the fence.  In preparing the area for the new fencing I needed to clear out the wild blackberries that are encroaching on the garden.  A future headache will be when blackberries start growing up through the horizontal welded wire.

Here's the garden last spring.  You can see the dense growth of
blackberries on the left that is encroaching from the outer fence. 
The inner fence need to be re-established at the base. 
I'm planning on transplanting a fig to the center.

Here's the plan for the buried welded wire fencing that should
keep the ground hog from burrowing under.  The loosely attached
chicken wire creates an unstable barrier that the ground hogs
find difficult to climb on.

While many folks do not like these somewhat weedy blackberries, with a little management they can produce some good quality fruit.  The secret is to prune back the long flowering branches to 4-8 buds in late winter/early spring.  This reduces the number of berries produced, but increases their size and sweetness.  In fact last year the blackberries were the best performing food plant in the garden.  In addition the tall blackberry canes around the garden help deter the deer from jumping over the double fence.  For a good resource for keeping deer out of a garden take a look at Deerproofing your Yard and Garden by Rhonda Hart.

Last year I started growing a 'Brown Turkey' fig outdoors in the ground.  It should do fine with the cold, it's cold hardy in USDA zones 5-9.  It does, however, get browsed by deer.  For this reason I will move one out to the center of the fenced in vegetable garden.  

Replacing Exotic Spireas

Over the past couple of years I have been accumulating native some native shrubs as replacements for exotic spireas and forsythia.  First was New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus).  This grows about 3' tall and wide in part to full sun and dryish, slightly acidic soils.  A major drawback is that deer and rabbits like to eat it. I will be using those in the pool enclosure where at least the deer are excluded.  Sizewise this is a good replacement for the spireas that I currently have.  

I have been growing meadowsweet, Spiraea alba for awhile.  This species is a vigorous grower with a rather rangy habit.  It is better suited as background plant, rather than a feature.  Last year I got a couple of shinyleaf meadowsweet, Spiraea corymbosa.  This Mid-Atlantic native has a habit more similar to that of its Asian relatives.  I will give this one a try in pool enclosure as well.

Another plant that I have been seeking for a long time is prairie willow (Salix humilis).  This Northeastern native willow is early spring blooming and only grows 4-6' tall.  It seems to be a good visual substitute for forsythia.  A couple have overwintered well in the ground.  If these continue to perform well I should be able to make more, since willows are particularly easy to propagate.    

this is the shinyleaf meadowsweet as it arrived last summer. 
If it has overwinter successfully, I will get it in the ground later this spring.

Woodland Management

Managing a landscape is as much about taking plants out as it is expanding and adding new plants.  In one area that is an early successional woodland (trees 15-20 years old) I have been aggressively killing off Tree of Heaven (Alianthus altissima).  As the larger ones are coming down the canopy is opening up and I'm seeing an increase in the undergrowth.  I need to manage this area by selective removing killing invasive species like multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora) and garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata).  Late winter/early spring is a good time to hit these with herbicide, while the native species are dormant.  For the larger roses I've been doing cut stem treatments (apply 20% glyphosate to freshly cut stumps with foam paint brush).  Garlic mustard and dense masses of rose with leaves get the standard foliar spray.  

I'm trying to eliminate the Tree of Heaven that has dominated
this young woodland.  Most of the trunks laying on the ground
are ones that I have successfully treated using the Hack and
Squirt method.  In the center is one of the musclewoods
that grow well in this mostly shady area.

These trees were treated two years ago with a commercial
mixture of 2,4-D and dicamba.  The one in front is being
helped along by some currently unknown critter.

My goal here is to maintain this as a high quality woodland.  A couple of years ago I started adding some young 2 gallon oaks and red maples, but these did not survive in this minimally cared for location.  There is some debate about how effective humans are at forest regeneration and that letting trees grow from the natural seed bank may be more effective.  So now I am just adding protective cages around desirable seedlings especially oaks, maples, black cherry and musclewood (Carpinus caroliniana).  The most prolific native tree in these woods are box elders (Acer negundo).  These don't need any protection.

I am, however, adding some bare root evergreens to our windbreak to the north and west of our house.  The white pine trees here are aging out and I would like to get some replacements established before these have to come out.  This year I am adding some red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) and Canaan firs (Abies balsamea var. phanerolepis).  Of the fir trees I've tried to grow here in the neutral pH soil in Pleasant Valley, the Canaan fir seems to be the happiest. 

This Canaan fir is still in the wire cage I
put around it to protect from deer rubbing.

Shade Management

Another bit of shade management I did was to take out a rapidly growing tulip tree that was too close to the house and swimming pool and would soon cast too much shade on some smaller trees and shrubs.  I figured I could cut it myself this year while it was under 40' tall, any bigger and I would want professional help.  Many of the other tulip trees here are 80+ feet tall.  I really hated removing a native tree like this but in this location it would soon dominate the landscape.

The tulip tree I removed was only about 10 years old
(see inset) but was already nearly 40' tall.  It was
casting a lot of shade on a nearby persimmon. 
The box elder may be next.

This nearby tulip tree is probably in the 70-80' range
and growing.  A good choice here, but much to big to
be close to the house.

Invasives Management

And of course I'm am continuing a broad fight against the invasive plants.  In addition to early spraying for garlic mustard and multiflora rose, I am starting to go after the Japanese honeysuckle growing on the ground.  I have just a little more time to treat these with glyphosate before the spring ephemerals come out in force.  Also with the warm winter we've had it is almost time to apply a pre-emergent  herbicide to control the Japanese stiltgrass that will start sprouting in early May.  These pre-emergent treatments have been very effective at reducing the amount of stiltgrass growing in the lawn.  They also seem to have reduced that amount of hairy cress (Cardamine hirsuta) in the lawn.

Treating Garlic Mustard in the Offseason

Late last winter I began testing the effectiveness of spraying garlic mustard, Alliaria petiolata, rosettes with glyphosphate.  Spraying in late fall through winter has the advantage that most native species are dormant at that time.  While I did not have early satisfaction of find a lot of dead garlic mustard plants it did seem as though there were many fewer blooming stalks by mid-spring.  You can read about that in my blog post ‘Fighting Garlic Mustard with Fire? Or Something Else…’

Here's a typical patch of garlic mustard as it looks in November.  It is accompanied here
by Japanese honeysuckle, another invasive that can treated at this time.

This fall I am repeating the spraying.  I had to wait until after some sub-freezing temperatures to make sure that the native vegetation was dormant and hence unaffected by the glyphosate spray.  The advantage of spraying in late fall is that there is less risk to the native vegetation, particularly the spring ephemerals, like Dutchman’s breeches and spring beauties.  Another reason to wait until fall is that a large number of garlic mustard seedlings (80-90%) do not survive the first year, as reported by The Nature Conservancy. So by waiting there will be fewer plants to treat and less herbicide used.  The drawback to fall spraying is that the fresher leaf cover on the ground can hide more of the rosettes.  Since I spray the individual rosettes rather than blanket spray I can move the leaves out of the way as I work and can use a lot less herbicide.  You can find a report on the effectiveness of winter spraying in this paper by Frey, et al. 

Another invasive that can be treated in fall is Japanese honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica.  Here on my zone 6-7 property Japanese honeysuckle does not go completely dormant and is still susceptible to glyphosate spray.  I sprayed a plot that was fairly dense with the honeysuckle this past week.  We’ll see in the spring if it made a difference.

There are a number of other invasive ground covers that are still green now, but according to the literature I found foliar glyphosate is not particularly effective at this time.  Among these are vinca, Vinca minor, creeping Charlie, Glechoma hederacea, and mock strawberry, Potentilla indica.  So despite my desire to be rid of these I did not waste any of my spray on these unwelcomed plants.

By target spraying I can avoid the native species that still have living foliage.  These include some plants with rounded leaves similar to garlic mustard like white avens, violets, and golden ragwort.  Other natives to avoid spraying include sedges and cool season grasses, ferns and any other early spring plants coming up early.

 

Winter rosettes of white avens have whitish veins.  You can see how
it compares to the deeply veined leaves of garlic mustard,
marked with white*'s.

In comparison to garlic mustard,
violet leaves are smooth and somewhat glossy.

Golden ragwort leaves are palmately veined
and are regularly toothed on the margins.

A fall trip through the woods also turns up other invasives with distinctive foliage or berries like winged euonymus, barberry, and Oriental bittersweet.  Small specimens of these can be pulled from the moister fall soil. These can also be treated with 20% solutions of glyphosate using the 'cut and paint method.'

I spotted this burning bush/winged euonymus because it still had foliage on it. 
Others with their namesake bright red foliage were even easier to see and pull.

To control garlic mustard one needs to use a combination of tactics appropriate to the situation and season.  Winter spraying with glyphosate will be easier and more effective than fire.  In the spring, pulling or targeted spraying would be most effective.  And for those plants remaining in the late summer, cutting close to the ground or continued pulling will be in order.

Summary of Garlic Mustard Control Measures

Method	Timing	Pros	Cons	Effectiveness
Fire	Late Fall to Early Spring	Non-toxic.	Difficult to achieve ideal conditions; Need to keep under control.	A good moderately hot fire is effective, but difficult to achieve.
Herbicide Spray	Dormant season	High kill rate; can be targeted; no soil disturbance.	Spraying toxic materials; may affect non-target species.	Dormant season spraying reduces non-target species effects.
Cutting	Summer, after flowering	Non-toxic; cutting at ground level nearly 100% effective; minimal soil disturbance.	Labor intensive; disposal of cut stems/flower stalks; use of weed whacker causes collateral damage.	Very effective when done right.
Pulling	Anytime ground is soft	Non-toxic; very effective as long as most of the root is removed.	Labor intensive; disposal of pulled plants required once flowers are present; soil disturbance.	Very effective.

 

Fighting Garlic Mustard with Fire? Or Something Else...

A couple of years ago I added a garden torch to my arsenal of tools to maintain the landscape.  Fire can be a natural and effective tool in controlling invasive species and is one of the better ways to maintain a prairie ecosystem.  But, fire can also get out of control and its effectiveness is diminished if it is not timed properly or its intensity is not sufficient to destroy the target species.  On the garden scale a garden torch is a good way to kill weeds growing in cracks in a drive or walkway.  It is also effective at killing young seedlings, particularly annuals.  I found it particularly useful for  for clearling plants away from the partially buried wire fence around the vegetable garden.  Perennials and established plants require much more heat to kill them.  For established weeds repeated burning 2-3 weeks apart may be necessary.  Though it seems counter-intuitive, flaming moistened soil is more effective at killing young plants and seeds than dry soil because the moisture helps conduct  the heat through the soil.

Here's my Benzomatic garden torch.  It is light weight and a good size to fit into tight spaces. 
The one pound tank lasts an hour or so, depending on how big a flame you use.  

I originally got my torch to use on Japanese stiltgrass.  While spring burning does kill the sprouts effectively, other plants are actively growing at this time and the fire will set those back as well.  Also stiltgrass germination occurs over an extended time period, so multiple burns would be necessary.  For stiltgrass in a cool season lawn, burning in late summer, while the perennial grasses are in summer dormancy, is very effective at preventing the stiltgrass from setting seed.

This success with stiltgrass got me to thinking about using the torch on garlic mustard, Alliaria petiolata.  Garlic mustard is a monocarpic biennial. It spends its first year as a rosette of deeply reticulated, reniform (kidney-shaped) leaves that builds up energy reserves in its fleshy white roots.  The following year it sends up a 2-4 foot flowering stalk in mid- to late-spring. It seems that winter time might be a good time to take out the garlic mustard.

Winter rosette of garlic mustard.

In the past when I have tried to burn garlic mustard I found I had to hold the flame on the plant for a long time before I could see much damage.  Before burning through a lot of propane, I decided to do a little research on using fire against garlic mustard.  The U.S. Forest Service has reports that document the effects of fire on a number of important plant species, including invasives.  Follow this link to the Forest Service report on garlic mustard.  A study authored by Victora Nuzzo for the Illinois Department of Conservation in 1990 compared the effectiveness of fire, herbicide and cutting for the control of garlic mustard.  They found that for fire to be effective it needed to be moderately intense and carried out in early spring.  Ideal burning conditions were often not available.  Herbicidal spray treatments were most effective in early fall and spring, timed for when native vegetation was dormant and thus less susceptible to the herbicidal effects.  One study out of Ohio showed that winter-time application of glyphosate when temperatures were between 25-45 F was very effective at killing garlic mustard rosettes.

Cutting plants after seed formation had begun in mid- to late-summer was very effective at reducing the number of plants in subsequent years.  Cutting at ground level resulted in nearly complete mortality, while cutting a couple of inches above the soil surface was only about 70% effective at killing the plant.  Since flowers and seeds continue to develop on cut stems, it is important to bag and dispose of all the garlic mustard cuttings.

Pulling mature garlic mustard is also very effective, and can be done anytime.  As with cuttings, if there are any flowers present the pulled plants should be bagged and disposed of.  While completely non-toxic, pulling garlic mustard is labor intensive (pulling and clean-up) and disturbs the soil.  This allows for the germination of additional seeds buried in the soil.

Here are some of the interesting garlic mustard facts that I came across while researching this post:

•        Seeds lie dormant for a year before germinating.  This means you may not see the effect of control measures on new seedlings until the second growing season.
•         Flowers are self pollinating; many are already pollinated before the flower opens.
•         Flowers can photosynthesize.  They can continue to mature to form seed even after they have been cut or pulled.
•        Plants are monocarpic.  They will continue to live until they set seed, even multiple years.
•        Seedling mortality is high, 80-90%, during their first year.  More effort should be expended on removing maturing plants particularly in late fall to early spring.
•       Of the common herbicides, glyphosate and triclopyr are very effective at controlling garlic mustard, 2,4-D is not.

So, Burn or Not?

So to answer the original question, should I use fire to control my garlic mustard?  The answer, for me, is no.  I will need to use a combination of tactics appropriate to the situation and season.  Winter spraying with glyphosate will be easier and more effective than fire at my location.  In the spring, pulling or carefully targeted spraying would be most effective.  And for those plants remaining in the late summer, cutting close to the ground or continued pulling will be in order.

To test this I will target spray with 3% glyphosate in a section of the woods in February if (when) we get a stretch of days in the 40’s with no rain and see how that compares to untreated areas.  (February seems a little early, but we are in the 60’s in early January, so plants may be getting woken up a few months before normal.)  Rather than blanket spraying I will try to target the spray onto existing rosettes.  One of the reasons to use target application is to avoid those few natives that are still in leaf through the winter. 

Some native plants that may look similar to garlic mustard rosettes include violets, Heuchera, Tiarella, and white avens (Geum canadense).  Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) and common mallow (Malva neglecta) are some weeds that look similar, but are not currently on my hit list.  (I found no studies that indicated that ground ivy is susceptible to herbicides in winter.  Based on that I wouldn't waste time and materials treating it in the winter.)

Compare the palmate lobed leaves with the deeply veined (reticulated), bright green leaves
of the garlic mustard.  Here, pulling is the only option for removing the garlic mustard.

The leaves of foamflower are distinctly lobed.  The vein pattern
is different from that of garlic mustard.

Golden ragwort has regularly toothed leaf margins and a more linear vein pattern.

White avens over winters as a loose rosette of leaves.  Though most winter leaves
 have 3 lobes, some appear roundish and vaguely similar to garlic mustard.

The leaf shape of common mallow is similar to that of garlic mustard,
but the vein pattern is different.

In areas where I am more actively managing the garlic mustard I will continue pulling plants through late spring (before flowering).  In late summer I will see if there is a practical way to cut the plants close to the ground without leveling the surrounding vegetation.  Otherwise, keep pulling!

This table summarizes the garlic mustard control methods mentioned in this post.

Summary of Garlic Mustard control measures

Method	Timing	Pros	Cons	Effectiveness
Fire	Late Fall to Early Spring	Non-toxic	Difficult to achieve ideal conditions; Need to keep under control	A good moderately hot fire is effective, but difficult to achieve.
Herbicide Spray	Dormant season	High kill rate; can be targeted; no soil disturbance	Spraying toxic materials; may affect non-target species	Dormant season spraying reduces damage to non-target species.
Cutting	Summer, after flowering	Non-toxic; cutting at ground level nearly 100% effective; minimal soil disturbance	Labor intensive; must dispose of stems/flower stalks; use of weed whacker causes collateral damage.	Very effective when done right.
Pulling	Anytime ground is soft and easily worked	Non-toxic; very effective as long as most of the root is removed	Labor intensive; disposal of pulled plants required once flowers are present; soil disturbance	Very effective

It looked like a mild winter until...

We've been having a pretty mild winter this year.  The average temperature in the U.S. in February 2017 was 7.3 F above the 20th century average.  Comparing photos I'd taken in 2014 and 2015 with this year indicates that this year we are 2-4 weeks ahead, based on the blooming of the crocus and forsythia.  On March 14th we finally got a good dose of snow in our neck of the woods (west-central Maryland).

This late snow is out of place with the forsythia that has been blooming since late-February this year.

About a week before the snow storm I took a walk around the woods to see what was starting to come up.  The first thing I checked on was the spicebush.  It usually begins blooming shortly after the forsythia.  This year, while the forsythia had been in bloom for a couple of weeks, the spicebush was just getting started.

March 10th and the flower buds on the spicebush were just opening.

The next plant I checked was the pussy willow, Salix discolor.  This native tree/shrub is one of the earliest blooming native plants and is an important source of pollen to early season native bees.  Since this species is dioecious, only the male plants are sources of pollen; however both male and female flowers have nectar.

The buds of this pussy willow are just opening.  When fully in
bloom the flower buds of this male plant will be covered
with yellow pollen-bearing anthers.

Looking down on the ground in the leaf litter I found a number of Virginia bluebells, Mertensia virginica, that had just come up.  Sometimes the new leaves have a purple tinge to them, but that color quickly fades to green.  The spikes of flower buds follow quickly after this first flush of leaves.

These Virginia bluebells have just come up.

Also showing up on the ground was white avens, Geum canadense, which is pretty common in this area.  While its not particularly beautiful in bloom, it does fill in gaps in the shady understory and its wispy white flowers break up the sea of green leaves.  In the early spring it is by the light colored veins on the deeply divided leaves.

The leaf markings on this white avens rival those of some Heucheras;
however, as it matures the dominant leaves will be smaller and the veination less noticeable.

The plant to the left in this photo is purple deadnettle, Lamium purpureum.  This introduced species is scattered throughout the shady areas.  While weedy, it does not appear to be causing too much trouble with the other plants.

These violets look a little like garlic mustard, ...

Also noted among the fallen leaves were fresh leaves of some native violets, probably woolly blue violet, V. sororia.  These nearly round leaves have finely serrated margins (crenate) and fairly smooth leaves.

They can be distinguished from the over-wintering garlic mustard rosettes that have longer, slender petiole and leaves that are deeply veined and more deeply toothed serrate leaf margins.

Garlic mustard has deeply veined leaves that
look tired, having been out all winter.

Garlic mustard is not the only invasive species that is evident right now.  In fact late winter is a good time to spot some invasive species since they tend to come to life a little before most of the native species.  Multiflora rose and barberry are both leafing out now making them stand out in the woods.  Since the soil was soft I was able to pull a number of these bad guys out of the ground.  This is also a good time to spot Japanese honeysuckle growing up in the trees.  Now is a good time to  cut these climbing vines and deny the roots an early burst of energy.

Most native honeysuckles have the two terminal leaves fused together
like this just below the flower bud.

While not growing with the same vigor as the Japanese honelysuckle at this time, the native coral or trumpet honeysuckle is also leafing out. Flower buds are beginning to form, though the normal bloom season is closer to mid-spring.

A Native Returns

Back in 2014 I found a small patch of American germander, Teucrium canadense, growing on the edge of a woodland dominated by invasive species like, Japanese stiltgrass, Mircostegium vimineum, and wineberry, Rubus phoenicolasius.  Since then I have been pulling the stiltgrass in late summer and cutting the wineberry to the ground each spring.  This year we have been rewarded with a much larger swath of germander and a correspondingly smaller mass of invasives.

Mid-July and this area is now dominated by American germander, Teucrium canadense, in bloom

My work is not over.  This area still has a lot of stiltgrass and wineberry, as well as garlic mustard, Alliaia petiolata, which gets pulled in spring, but it is encouraging to see that, given a little help the native flora can come back.

Here's a honey bee about to land on some American germander.  The flowers are unusual
in that the stamen project straight out above the lower lip, which serves as the landing pad.

Discovering My Invasives

As we are coming into late spring and I have been marveling about all the native plants I have found a crop of invasive plants has manifested themselves.  I know some of these were lurking out there, others were plants that I had misidentified, but have now reveled themselves now that they are in bloom.  Here a run down on what I've got, but wish I hadn't, and I plan to do about it.

Multiflora Rose, Rosa multiflora, is scattered around the property, mostly in the woodland edges.  These roses can be identified by their frilly stipules (leafy appendages at the base of the petioles), but now are very obvious by the clusters of fragrant, small white flowers.  I had hoped that I had some native roses out in the field, but so far it looks like they are all Multifloras.

Left to its own Multiflora Rose will send stems high into a tree.  

For the plants out in the open I am continuing to mow over them.  For the more established plants I will cut and treat the stumps with concentrated Round-Up in August.  I will do an earlier cut on some plants to prevent this crop of seeds from maturing, but I want to leave enough for easy application of the herbicide later in the season.


It turns out that a couple of small trees that I thought were Pin Cherries are actually Autumn Olives, Elaeagnus umbellata.  My mistake was made clear at the beginning of May when these plants were coming into full bloom.  I was drawn to the wonderful sweet scent.  When I saw the flowers I realized that what I had was definitely not a cherry of any kind.

These two Autumn Olives are nicely situated on either side of a path.
I'll cut them down soon and replace with something native,
maybe Winterberry Holly and Tupelo

These fragrant tubular flowers
were very popular with the bees.

I decided to let these finish flowering before cutting them back to a stump and then treating the fresh cuts with Round-Up concentrate.  This seems to be a pretty general method for killing undesired shrubby vegetation.  I did this to a very large Euonymus alatus in mid-March and I have seen very little if any regrowth so far this season.


When we first moved in last fall I noticed a lot of honeysuckle vines growing everywhere.  I had hoped that they were the native Coral Honeysuckle, Lonicera sempervirens.  There were no berries present (Japanese Honeysuckle has black berries, L. sempervirens has red berries) so I couldn't tell by that.  Also a cross section of the stem appeared to solid, not hollow, so I assumed it wasn't Japanese Honeysuckle.  Now that they are coming into bloom with their sweet-smelling white flowers, I see that I have a lot of the invasive honeysuckle.  A check of the stem shows that these are in fact hollow, so looking at the cross-section of the stem may not be a great late season indicator for this species.

Japanese Honeysuckle flowers start off white, then turn yellow after a couple of days.

I'm not sure what approach to take on all the trailing stems on the ground.  Pulling and late season herbicide applications can be effective (as long as the leaves are still photosynthesizing).  In the interim I have been cutting the stems of the vines up in the trees to minimize seed production.

Garlic Mustard, Alliaria petiolata, is well establish in the wooded areas on and around our property.  I am trying to remove all of it from an area before moving on to a new area.  This is a more effective strategy for elimination than just pulling a few plants here and there from a much wider space.  The seed heads are just about to mature so it's time to take a break from pulling.  If you are pulling plants that are shedding seeds, it's kind of like planting more of them.

Year old rosettes of Garlic Mustard remain green here over the winter.  This gives me the option of either pulling or spraying when most of native plants are dormant.  Because of the diversity of native plants in the woods, I will continue pulling up any Garlic Mustard I see each spring and fall.  this will be a multi-year effort.

Same area after clearing.  The ground plane is now opened up.

Note the white center vein on the leaf.

Japanese Stilt Grass is wide spread in this area.  It fills in shady borders with a dense mass that can smoother out other plants.

As an annual it can be controlled if you can keep it from going to seed.  Cutting it back when it begins to flower in late summer can keep it from successfully setting seed.  Cutting it back earlier may stimulate earlier flowering.  For plants in the woods I will go after them with the weed wackier in August. This grass has a weak root system and is easily pulled up, but there is just so much!

This is a very leafy grass and is soft to the touch.  The shiny mid-rib is a feature that sets it apart from other grasses

This is a recently opened-up area where the stilt grass is going to town.
It is joined by some garlic mustard and  bittersweet.
The near-by poison ivy is slowing my progress here.

Note the triangular leaves of Mile-a-minute vine.
There are nasty thorns forming on all  parts of this vine.

Mile-a-Minute Vine is a very fast growing invasive.  Once I noticed it I took some time out from writing this post to pull it out right away.  It is really important to do this before its many thorns begin to harden.  In my enthusiasm I accidentally pulled up a new Redbud tree, because its heart-shaped leaves looked similar to the triangular leaves of Mile-a-minute.

To combat this invasive, a weevil has been introduced and has been found to be very effective, and selective, at consuming this plant.  I examined the plants I pulled but saw no signs of this insect.  

To keep from going crazy I've realized that these invasives did not appear overnight and that any reasonable action is a step in the right direction.